Land Pride Mower Blade Part Numbers: Cross-Reference Guide

⚡ Quick Answer:
Land Pride finish mower blades cross-reference to multiple aftermarket options including Oregon G5, Stens, and Copperhead blades. Common part number 890-167C (and similar) can be replaced with quality aftermarket blades at 30-50% savings while maintaining cut quality and blade life. Most Land Pride models use 21″ high-lift or medium-lift blades depending on application.

🚜 Popular Land Pride Finish Mower Models

RCF Series (Flex-Wing Finish Mowers)

RCF2060, RCF2572, RCF2784 (6′ to 7′ wings)
RCF3615 (15′ total cutting width)
Most use 21″ high-lift blades for excellent discharge
Typically 3 blades per wing section

RCR Series (Rotary Cutters)

RCR1260, RCR1860, RCR2060 (5′ to 7′ cutting width)
RCR2512, RCR3115 (heavy-duty models)
Heavy-duty brush cutting blades (thicker construction)
Designed for rough pasture and light brush

FDR Series (Rear Discharge Finish Mowers)

FDR1660, FDR1672, FDR2572 (5.5′ to 7′ cutting)
Rear discharge design for clean, professional finish
Typically use medium-lift blades
Popular for residential estates and commercial properties

⚠️ Always verify your current blade dimensions before ordering – Land Pride uses multiple blade sizes across model years and configurations!

Land Pride Blade Cross-Reference Chart

Brand	Part Number	Price	Blade Type	Buy
Land Pride OEM	890-167C / 820-198C	$40-50/pair	High-Lift	View Price
Oregon G5	Compatible 21″ Gator	$30-40/set	Mulching	View Price
Stens	Heavy-Duty 21″	$25-35/set	Standard	View Price
Copperhead	Budget Compatible	$20-28/set	Economy	View Price

💰 Annual Cost Savings: Aftermarket blades save $15-25 per set. With 3 blades per mower changed twice per season = $90-150 annual savings! Over 5 years, that’s $450-750 in your pocket with identical cutting performance.

Blade Types Explained

🌪️ High-Lift Blades

Best for: Bagging, side discharge, thick grass, wet conditions

Features: Aggressive lift angle, excellent grass evacuation, strong airflow under deck

Requirements: Needs more HP, creates more dust in dry conditions, loudest option

🍃 Medium-Lift Blades

Best for: General mowing, varied conditions, all-season use

Features: Balanced lift, good mulching capability, versatile performance

Requirements: Lower HP demand, quieter operation, less dusty than high-lift

♻️ Mulching/Gator Blades

Best for: Mulching, clipping return, lawn fertilization, leaf shredding

Features: Extra cutting surfaces, superior mulching action, extended blade life

Requirements: Not ideal for tall/wet grass, slower cutting speed in thick conditions

Complete Blade Replacement Guide

Safety First – Critical Step

Disconnect PTO from tractor. Lower mower to ground. Shut off tractor engine and remove key. Engage parking brake. Wait 5 minutes for blade momentum to stop. Block mower deck with jack stands to prevent lowering during work. Wear heavy leather gloves – blade edges are sharp!

Mark Blade Orientation

Before removing blades, use paint pen or marker to mark which side faces UP toward the deck. Arrow pointing up works well. Blades installed upside down won’t cut properly and can damage spindles. Take a photo with your phone showing blade orientation for reference during reinstallation.

Remove Old Blades

Use impact wrench or breaker bar on blade bolts (torqued 80-120 ft-lbs). Insert 2×4 wood block between blade and deck to prevent spindle rotation. Turn bolt counterclockwise. If bolt is stuck, apply penetrating oil and wait 15 minutes. Never use heat – it damages spindle bearings. Remove blade, washer, and any spacers (save spacers for reinstallation in same position).

Inspect Spindles & Hardware

Check spindle shaft for damage, scoring, or wear. Verify blade mounting surface is flat (not dished or warped). Spin spindle by hand – should rotate smoothly without grinding or roughness. Replace worn blade bolts annually (stretched threads cause blade slippage). Inspect blade mounting holes for elongation or cracks. Clean grass buildup and debris from under deck.

Balance New Blades

Use blade balancer to verify blade balance before installation. Place blade on balancer cone – blade should sit level. If one side drops, grind small amounts of metal from heavy side (grind on back side, not cutting edge). Recheck balance after each grinding. Unbalanced blades destroy spindle bearings ($80-150 each), cause severe vibration, poor cut quality, and premature blade wear. A $12 balancer prevents $500+ in spindle repairs.

Install & Torque Properly

Install blades with marked side UP (lift wing/cutting edge faces toward deck). Replace any spacers in original position. Install new or good-condition blade bolt with washer. Hand-tighten, then torque to 80-120 ft-lbs using calibrated torque wrench (not impact wrench for final torque). Verify blade spins freely without hitting deck. Start mower at low RPM, listen for vibration. Re-torque bolts after first hour of operation. See our mower blade replacement guide

Critical Safety Warning

NEVER work under a raised mower deck without blocking it securely! Hydraulic systems can fail unexpectedly. Use heavy-duty jack stands or solid blocking under deck corners – not just the 3-point hitch. One person is killed annually by falling mower decks. A falling 600-lb deck can cause fatal crush injuries. Always assume hydraulics will fail and block accordingly.

Blade Troubleshooting: Why Your Mower Isn’t Cutting Well

🔴 Problem: Uneven Cut / Missed Strips

Causes: Dull blades, bent blades, uneven blade height, damaged spindles, incorrect mower pitch

Solutions: Sharpen or replace blades. Check blade tip height with ruler – should be within 1/8″ across all blades. Verify deck pitch (front should be 1/4″ lower than rear). Replace bent blades immediately. Test spindles for wobble.

🟡 Problem: Grass Clumping / Poor Discharge

Causes: Dull blades not lifting grass, deck buildup restricting airflow, mowing too fast, cutting too much height, wet grass

Solutions: Sharpen blades to restore lift. Clean under-deck thoroughly. Reduce ground speed by 25%. Never remove more than 1/3 of grass height per cut. Mow when grass is dry. Switch to high-lift blades for better discharge.

🔵 Problem: Excessive Vibration

Causes: Unbalanced blades, bent blades, damaged spindle bearings, loose blade bolts, blade hitting debris

Solutions: Balance all blades on blade balancer. Replace bent blades (cannot be straightened reliably). Torque blade bolts to spec (80-120 ft-lbs). Check spindle bearings for roughness. Clear deck of debris. Never ignore vibration – leads to $500+ spindle repairs.

🟣 Problem: Blades Dull Quickly

Causes: Cutting too low (hitting dirt/rocks), sandy soil, incorrect blade metallurgy, over-sharpening (metal too thin)

Solutions: Raise cutting height 1/2″ minimum. Avoid mowing over exposed dirt, gravel driveways. In sandy areas, expect 50% shorter blade life (upgrade to heavy-duty blades). Don’t sharpen blades to razor edge – leaves weak edge that folds over quickly. When blade edge is ground to less than 1/8″ thick, replace blade.

Seasonal Blade Maintenance Tips

🌱 Spring (March-May)

Start season with freshly sharpened or new blades. Spring grass is thick and fast-growing – sharp blades essential for clean cuts. Inspect blade bolts for rust from winter storage – replace if corroded. Balance blades after winter storage (blades may have warped from moisture). Consider switching to high-lift blades for heavy spring growth.

☀️ Summer (June-August)

Mid-season blade sharpening (around July). Hot, dry conditions create more dust and blade wear. Check for blade tip rounding – indicator of dullness. Clean under-deck weekly to prevent grass buildup reducing blade efficiency. In drought conditions, raise cutting height and reduce mowing frequency to reduce blade stress. Sandy soil areas may need blade replacement by late summer.

🍂 Fall (September-November)

Switch to mulching blades for leaf season (October-November). Mulching blades shred leaves effectively for lawn nutrition. Final blade sharpening before storage. Remove, sharpen, and store blades indoors for winter if storing mower outside. Apply light oil coating to prevent rust. Fall is ideal time to replace worn blades – install new blades before winter storage so they’re ready for spring.

❄️ Winter (December-February)

Store blades in dry location (basement, garage – not outdoor shed). Apply WD-40 or oil film to prevent rust. Good time to order replacement blades for spring (prices often lower in off-season). Inspect blade bolt threads – if damaged, order replacements now. Review blade inventory – keep one spare set on hand for quick swaps during peak season.

🔧 Complete Blade Replacement Kit

Replacement Blades:

Land Pride OEM 890-167C – Original equipment quality ($40-50/pair)
Oregon G5 Gator Blades – Premium mulching performance ($30-40/set)
Stens Heavy-Duty Blades – Quality aftermarket alternative ($25-35/set)
Copperhead Blades – Budget-friendly option ($20-28/set)

Essential Installation Tools:

Blade Bolt Kit (Grade 8) – Replace annually for safety ($12-18)
Blade Balancer – Prevents expensive spindle damage ($10-15)
Torque Wrench – Proper bolt tensioning critical ($40-60)

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💡 Pro Tip: Change blades every 25-50 hours of operation or when dull. Sharpen blades 2-3 times before replacing. Keep a spare set of sharpened blades on hand for quick swaps during peak mowing season – takes 15 minutes to swap vs 45 minutes to remove, sharpen, balance, and reinstall!

Related Mower Maintenance

🔧 Complete Finish Mower Service

Finish Mower Guide – Complete buying & setup guide for all brands
Maintenance Checklist – Track all service intervals including blade changes
Fluid Capacity Chart – Gearbox oil specifications for mower maintenance

❓ Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I replace Land Pride mower blades?

Replace blades when blade tips are rounded/dull beyond sharpening (typically after 2-3 sharpenings), cracks appear near mounting holes, blades are bent, or metal is worn thin (less than 1/8″ thick at cutting edges). Typical blade life: 25-75 hours depending on conditions. Rocky or sandy soil wears blades 2-3x faster than clean grass. Hitting stumps, fence posts, or metal objects can instantly destroy blades. As a rule: if you’re mowing twice per week in season, expect to sharpen monthly and replace blades 1-2 times per season.

Can I install Land Pride blades upside down or backwards?

NO! Blades MUST be installed with the lift wing/cutting edge facing UP toward the mower deck. The angled lift section must face the deck top, with the sharp cutting edge on the bottom leading edge. Installing upside down causes: poor cut quality (grass not lifted), grass blowout from under deck, excessive deck vibration, potential spindle damage from improper blade loading, and premature blade wear. Installing backwards (rotating in wrong direction) results in zero cutting – blades will push grass down instead of cutting. Always mark blade orientation before removal with paint pen showing “THIS SIDE UP”.

What happens if I don’t balance my Land Pride blades?

Unbalanced blades cause: severe vibration that damages spindle bearings ($80-150 each to replace – 3 spindles = $240-450), cracked spindle housings ($200-400 repair), bent spindle shafts ($150-250 each), uneven cut quality from vibration, faster blade wear from harmonic stress, potential blade/bolt failure at high RPM (blades spinning at 3,000+ RPM have enormous force), operator fatigue from vibration, and loosened deck bolts/hardware. A $12 blade balancer prevents $500-1,000 in spindle repairs. Always balance after sharpening (grinding removes metal unevenly) or when installing new blades (factory blades may not be perfectly balanced).

Should I sharpen or replace my Land Pride mower blades?

Sharpen blades 2-3 times before replacing. Each sharpening removes metal, making blades progressively thinner. Replace when: blade edge is ground thinner than 1/8″, cracks appear anywhere on blade (especially near center hole or corners), blade is bent beyond straightening, or metal shows rust perforation. Sharpening costs: $8-12 per blade professionally, $0 DIY with angle grinder (15 minutes per blade). New blades cost $10-25 each. Economic decision: if blade needs 4+ sharpenings per season and replacement costs $25, that’s $32-48 in sharpening vs $25 replacement. Replace blades at start of each season for best performance, sharpen mid-season as needed.

Will aftermarket blades fit my Land Pride mower?

Yes, if dimensions match. Measure your current blade: length (center hole to center hole), width, thickness, and center hole diameter. Most Land Pride finish mowers use 21″ length x 2.5″ width blades with 5/8″ center hole. Verify these dimensions before ordering. Aftermarket blades from Oregon, Stens, and Copperhead are manufactured to same specifications as OEM and will fit perfectly. Quality is comparable – Oregon G5 Gator blades actually outlast OEM in mulching applications. Only difference is price (30-50% savings) and warranty (OEM typically 1 year, aftermarket 90 days to 1 year). Blade metallurgy varies by manufacturer – premium aftermarket blades use same or better steel than OEM.

How do I know which blade type to choose for my Land Pride mower?

Choose based on primary use: High-lift blades for side discharge, bagging, or thick/tall grass (requires more HP, creates dust in dry conditions). Medium-lift blades for general all-purpose mowing, varied conditions, lower HP tractors (best all-around choice for most users). Mulching/Gator blades for returning clippings to lawn, leaf mulching, improved lawn nutrition (not ideal for tall/wet grass). Your Land Pride model may specify blade type in operator manual. RCF flex-wing models typically use high-lift for maximum discharge. FDR rear-discharge models often use medium-lift for balanced performance. Start with medium-lift if unsure – works well in 80% of conditions. Switch to high-lift only if experiencing poor discharge or grass clumping.

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